On Rue Saint-Denis, nestled between a sex shop selling 3 DVDs for €25 and a restaurant named 'La Chine sur la langue' (any association of ideas is purely coincidental), a new trattoria has emerged: Kuccini. With red letters displayed on a bright white background as its sign, large bay windows opening onto the cobblestones, and an exquisitely refined design (created by the architects of Maison Plisson), the scene is set, and the place is charming. In the race for concept bars sweeping across Paris (tapas bars, gin bars, vodka bars, rooftops, and many more), an Italian restaurant offering large or small versions of its dishes, depending on whether one has the appetite of a wolf or a hummingbird, was certainly needed.
Upon arrival, one immediately feels transported to an Italian holiday, and we order two Spritz. While they are perfectly chilled and well-balanced, we cannot help but be astonished by the price: €9 per glass. Not inexpensive. Three small plates follow: a fritto misto mare nostrum (€6), crescentine (€4.50), and a selection of Italian cured meats (€8.50). The first dish, consisting of fried roach, small shrimp, and calamari, among other items, is delightful. The second, with its small savory pastries to dip in a lightly tomato-based sauce, lacks character. The third, described as 'a selection of Italian cured meats,' is disappointing. A few thin slices of salami and prosciutto... A rather meager offering for anyone familiar with the generosity and diversity of Italian charcuterie.
Our initial enthusiasm wanes slightly, but we are not deterred, as a blueberry risotto (€8.50) and truffle and burrata ravioli (€8.50) arrive at our table: pure culinary marvels meticulously prepared by the Italian chef who came directly from Milan. We highly recommend pairing these delightful dishes with the esteemed red wine list (glasses ranging from €4.50 to €11) to experience a true explosion of flavors. We conclude our meal with a perfectly respectable tiramisu, served by a team that is not always very attentive, sometimes even quite scattered. We readily forgive them, as one must find their footing when starting in the profession.
We will very soon return to greet Kuccini's kind owner to order bruschetta or insalate when summer has truly arrived.
BY JENNY STAMPA
